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Forum Index > Discussion > 1966 Fleetwood Series 75 Build

rajeevx7 15 months ago
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The frame is out for welding and painting. It will be finished in POR15. I removed roughly 10lbs of scale from it so far.
rajeevx7 15 months ago
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rajeevx7 15 months ago
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rajeevx7 15 months ago
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rajeevx7 15 months ago
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This is the rear evaporator core. The adapter that connects the lower end of the expansion valve to the core pipe is impossible to find anymore to fit a new expansion valve.. The old can not be used either, due to a different thread on the new expansion valve side. The best fitting I could find after searching nation wide is a 3/8" flare to 1/2" FIP adapter. I double o-ringed and teflon taped the adapter.

The rear POA delete kit has a port to accept the oil return from the core. There is no such line on the rear cores, so cap that extra fitting with a 1/4" flare cap. That fits perfect. Also, don't forget to o-ring the plastic cap over the charge port. I am not convinced the system will need two low pressure cycling switches, so I will leave the pig tail unconnected for now until I can find someone who knows better. My sales rep. at classicautoair.com sounded like he was guessing.

MANY parts of the rear hvac system are identical to the front counterparts. For example : transducer, master switch, vac canister etc.
rajeevx7 15 months ago
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rajeevx7 15 months ago
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rajeevx7 14 months ago
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rajeevx7 14 months ago
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The frame is welded up, painted silver POR15 and air bagged. I highly recommend POR15. The silver is harder to work with because the silver flake is so heavy if sinks to the bottom of your tray/cup. Let it dry in the pan/cup a little before brushing as the silver flake will be suspended in the base, so you brush on color instead of clear base. 95% of my frame rust was at the RF door rocker. That was all cut back to solid steel. I purchased two pieces of 4' angle from Home Depot and welded in a U shape to box the lower piece of frame. Internally I used small steel stansion strips to brace the new U channel to the existing upper frame box (where the body mount sit).

I still have to P clip the air lines to the frame. The line was routed through the frame where ever possible with rubber hose as grommets. My air bag kit arrived in a box of 1000 pieces. I asked the company twice for instructions and what I finally recieved was laughable. Can someone confirm that the front bags are supposed to be or can be much larger than the rear bags? I can't figure out another way to make them fit without cutting into the body. I cut the bejesus out of my front spring cups for maximum clearence. I suggest that for all bags, even if they are "bolt in". 30 min of cutting could save days of frustrating labor if a bag rubs and pops.

As always, check my album for the entire pics. If you are wondering, I have a 6 car two story garage....unless one of those cars is a f**king 21' Cadillac:-(
rajeevx7 14 months ago
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rajeevx7 14 months ago
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That pic shows the rough spacing of where to weld your air bag plates onto the control arms up front. Mine went directly into the 'spring hump' without cutting it. After seeing my final fitment, I would recommend moving the plate outboard towards the ball joint another 3/4".
rajeevx7 14 months ago
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rajeevx7 14 months ago
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This shows the spring pocket clearances for the bag. I may have gone extra, but I can't imagine an alignment condition causing bag rub within this space. I have read that squared spring cup cuts are prone to cracking, so I will check the corners after the first few thousand miles.
rajeevx7 14 months ago
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rajeevx7 14 months ago
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Energy suspension makes these great ball joint covers. Part # 9-13128. Buy two packs because you will need 4 of the larger covers. They are held in place with friction and are tight. No miles on them yet, but they already look better than my torn and leaking rubber caps.  Before installing, you can use the zerk to do a grease flush of all 4.
rajeevx7 13 months ago
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rajeevx7 13 months ago
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rajeevx7 13 months ago
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rajeevx7 13 months ago
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The baggy pictured belongs to rubber body mounts. I choose rubber over poly, because it's a Caddy! You will have to purchase a bag of 2" washers because the placement plates won't fit through the center hole. But, setting them in place on top of the frame while I shimmied the body marriage caused them not to budge at all. Remember how many and where your shims are and reuse them accordingly.

I couldn't figure out what kind of steering shaft we have. I'm guessing a 3/4 splined? I fitted this stainless 13/16 36spline x 3/4 dd unit by grinding my steering shaft into a dd shape. Easy, just go slow and pause to check fitment. I then dimpled both set screws into the steering shaft for extra stability.

These are all the lines run over the axle to my trunk and tank. In order, left to right : tank vent, air tank lines, heater feed, vacuum, low pressure ac, heater return, high pressure ac, 12v power, fuel feed, fuel return. 

The entire underbody, rear wheel wells and rear trunk wall is sprayed with 3M proffesional 3584 rubberized underbody coating. Before spraying the 10 cans it took, I brushed on the ceramic heat barrier under most of the panels. All the brake lines are also run....so I think I'm just about done with the undercarriage:-)
rajeevx7 12 months ago
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