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Forum Index > Discussion > 1966 Fleetwood Series 75 Build

rajeevx7 3 months ago
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The last pic is the upholstered trunk. The floor is raised an inch due to a foam floor board I used. The side pockets were made to take advantage of that awkwardly placed but spatious cavity. The floor is real wood, but 60" planks because I did not want any perpendicular seams down there. It will be some time before I have power back there, so I added a Schrader valve to leak test the tank/lines and also assist the compressor during 0psi fills. Not pictured are the 8 dime sized led lights. 2 at the cubby tops, pointing down, and 4 in the back panel that sits at a 65* angle, pointing forward.
lowrider2905 88 days ago
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Heyhey,


had time to save the pictures and have a closer look. Very nice work, I like the Fleetwood 75 with its 2 A/Cs and the body design. The work and afford you take is awesome. Cant wait to see more pictures. Hope my ride will be ready soon, then I will load up my latest history.


Greetings from Germany, Richard

rajeevx7 87 days ago
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Hi Rich,

You can click on my screen name and my photo album will be on the right side of the page. That is the easiest way to see the full pics.

I've gotten the firewall, rad support and wheel wells painted. I had the radiator support and wells sandblasted for $150 and it was so worth it! Reassembly of the front is slowly progressing. The motor will go in, then I will assemble the sheet metal around it.


Thanks for the kind words


1966 Cadi75 Guy 61 days ago
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Hi,
any updates on your project? 
What struts/bags/shocks did you use for your air suspension & did you happen to test it?

Thanks!
rajeevx7 61 days ago
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rajeevx7 61 days ago
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The sheet metal is going back on around the installed motor. Wiring up everything. Dedicated +\- to the distributor with a fused relay. Charging system is 0/1 gauge.

The bag kit I used was from BC Fabrication. I haven't tested it yet because the car is in the air and does not have power yet. I have started leak testing it and will continue after the entire system is aired up. I have not added front shocks yet. In the rear I used some Gabriel stock shock replacements.

Thx
1966 Cadi75 Guy 59 days ago
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Really nice, I like the quality of your work.
What did you do about the shocks for your suspension? From what I understand, the front bags don't have an inner shock, so what did you do about the front shocks/dampers?

Thanks & keep up the good work!
rajeevx7 59 days ago
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You are correct, the bags don't have dampers in them. Those nifty ridetech things are ideal, but cost about $850 each. 
Earlier, I meant to say I haven't added front shocks yet. I can't come to a conclusion on where to mount them, so I moved on. I will probably get tired of the bouncy front end before I finally add them:-)

I strive for quality work, but this brother is far from perfect!
1966 Cadi75 Guy 58 days ago
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For the cost of the Ridetech Shockwaves, I would be curious first how your setup without front shocks works. It might not be that bad since you have rear shocks at least, but idk, the only car I drove without shocks had torsion bars, and it was ok, as long as you didnt do any high speed turns..  
Truestyle Scott 57 days ago
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http://www.bcfab.com/65-70-Cadillac-Tubular-Control-Arms--Set_p_1836.html

these look nice.  thought i seen them cheaper somewhere.  wouldnt be too hard to fab up shock brackets up front though.  I made brackets and lower arms so that they are lower A arms instead of the strut rod.  
rajeevx7 57 days ago
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I too would prefer a lower a-arm.....but not prefab for $1600! But, they do look badass!!!!!

They have universal stem or round mount shock brackets all over eBay. Eventually I'm sure I'll add some myself or pay a shop if I'm lazy.

Finally got power back to her so next I can start killing gremlins. 

Does anyone know why I'm getting constant power to my accessories when I hook the brown regulator wire to terminal 1 of my regulated alternator?
rajeevx7 21 days ago
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rajeevx7 21 days ago
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These old antenna masts have a solid nylon cord and are not like modern toothed cords. The symptoms for me were a slight up and slight down motion which would then start the overdrive clicking, both up and down. The overdrive spinner rides on two ball bearings and is the first thing you see when you pop the dust cap off. Tightening the two jam nuts on this shaft will cause the overdrive to trip at a higher torque, which would have solved the problem I had. But, I just tore the whole thing down anyway. 

1) use a sharp chisel to separate the three crimps on the dust dome. This dome holds no tension and is just a dust cover.
2) loosen the shaft jam nuts and remove the shaft roll pin. Take out the overdrive and ride plate (careful not to loose 2 ball bearings)
3) the nylon cord takes one loop around and through the next plate. Remove the two Phillips screws, plate and most of the nylon cord should fall out. 
4) the mast comes out from the lower end in sections. There are four sections, but the middle two pieces are connected. Grip the top thinnest section in a vice and unscrew the end ball.
5) remove three screws attaching gear housing to mast housing and tap the gear housing off. You will see the radio hook up wire soldered to the mast. This solder MUST be broken to remove the mast from the housing tube. I just soldered an extension wire onto the mast to make reinstall easier.
6) pull out the entire mast and the remainder of any cord in the gear housing.
7) hand straighten all the mast tubes until they slide as free as possible. Blow them all out with brake clean and relube with dry silicone spray. Keep tweaking until resistance is at a bare minimum.
8) if any parts are broken or bent beyond repair, replace during reassembly.
9) reassemble with some extra light grease on the gears and cord 
10) pull the plastic motor cover off the other side of the gear housing and spray that side out with electric contact cleaner and lube.
rajeevx7 16 days ago
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rajeevx7 16 days ago
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rajeevx7 16 days ago
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rajeevx7 16 days ago
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rajeevx7 16 days ago
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rajeevx7 16 days ago
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rajeevx7 16 days ago
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