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Forum Index > Discussion > 1966 Fleetwood Series 75 Build

rajeevx7 6 months ago
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Pic dump! As usual, click my name then view my album for full photos. In order:
1) Sniper engagement of trans kick down
2) Port matched gasket for Sniper butterflies
3) Blocked exhaust ports in intake manifold (fiber exhaust pipe leak repair strip cut down and covered with exhaust rtv after pic was taken
4) Sniper installed before wire loom coverings
5) Repaired tail lights with hard plastic lens stickers. Does not cover entire OE lense with just two packages, but get most of it. The bumpys are now on the outside, but you have to get pretty close to my rear end to see the plastic add ons. 
6) Tail light sockets replaced with 1157 and 1156 sockets and leds. You can perfect this install and get them straight by removing the mount rings off the oe sockets and welding them to the new sockets. I did one that way, but decided against it after seeing the even light distribution under the lens even with a crooked socket. I covered the sockets with waterproof gooey ac duct tape.
7) Bags aired about all out, less than 20psi in them.

rajeevx7 6 months ago
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I highly recommend the Holley Sniper EFI. Half turn the key dead cold and she fires...every time so far. The throttle and trans kick down linkage and push are super easy no brainers. Everything lines up. I choose not use the factory plastic carb insulator/spacer and mounted it straight to the intake manifold. You must block off your intake manifold exhaust crossover pipes.
A couple fittings for the pcv and other vacuum hoses and you are set. Shop around, and you can easily find one shy of $1k msrp. The easy to follow instructions are probably worth $1k alone! 
I built my own fuel system for about $175. But, there is a pre made kit for about $250 out there from Holley. It's probably worth the time savings to just buy a fuel kit.
Look at my pics and you will see the fuse, fuel pump relay and coil relay mounted to the oem coil mount. The pic is before I covered the wires with he provided loom, so you can see what's going on.
1966 Cadi75 Guy 6 months ago
ActivityRank: 0
Hi, 

really great work, its nice to see the car coming along.

Just curious, why block the intake manifold exhaust crossover pipes?

Thanks!
rajeevx7 6 months ago
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I had the car running with the Carter AFB and oem choke so it needed that crossover and exhaust heat riser on the right exhaust manifold. But, those two items are not needed with the EFI. The crossover will just heat up the throttle body for no reason and with it blocked you don't have to worry about any stray gasses seeping past the base gasket into the fresh air stream. And the heat riser is easy to remove and knock the butterfly out, or even easier to wire tie the valve open.
rajeevx7 5 months ago
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rajeevx7 5 months ago
ActivityRank: 0
Paint and body! This stage means everything else is done and 99% sorted, but this stage may become the most daunting. Previous pic is of the LF door with the rust cut out of it. There was also a section removed at the sideview mirror, that I can not explain. It was about 6 perfect holes ranging from 1/4" to 1.25". WTF!!

If you are attempting to do metal work.....just go for it. It is more of a mental anxiousness than a real obstacle. Buy a sheet of steel from Home Depot. Make paper templates of your cut outs and transfer them to your sheet. Massage fit until you are pleased and weld it in! I'm a terrible welder, but the seam is sealed front and back and then bondo'd smooth. If I can do it, I promise you can:-)

These window frames are taken apart by first removing the top header, then both side rails can collapse towards each other and be pulled out. Mind your exterior exposed seams where the header meets the side rails and don't crack the paint there.
rajeevx7 3 months ago
ActivityRank: 0
I added a few new pics to the album of some painted parts and a door hinge pin bushing kit.

 In the Dorman 38374 kit you get 4 pairs of different bushings. One set will fit, so you will have 6 extra bushings per box. On my rear  doors there were plastic bushings at the tapered end of the slide pins. I replaced these with new brass ones as well as the knurled pin side.I also noticed that there was no elongation of my bushings or hinge holes. So, while apart I crimped the [ hinge side in a vice so reassembly would be tighter. Although I don’t know the longevity of that method, there is no longer the very slight wiggle that was there to start with.

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